Cuidados del cabello afroamericano.

Autores/as

  • Leonardo Lora-Barraza Dermatólogo por la Pontificia Universidad Católica de Río de Janeiro (PUC-Río)/ Sociedad Brasileña de Dermatolgia (SBD) 2020. Monitor académico del consultorio de dermatologia en Piel negra. Instituto de dermatología professor Rubem David Azulay (IDPRDA).
  • Myrna B. Gómez-Parra Dermatóloga Fundación Universitaria de Ciencias de la Salud (FUCS) – Hospital San José (HSJ). Dermatóloga M&S Medicina especializada.
  • Katleen Da Cruz-Conceição Dermatóloga por la Universidad Federal Fluminense (UFF)/ Sociedad Brasileña de Dermatologia (SBD) 2002. Jefe del consultorio de dermatología en Piel negra Instituto de dermatología professor Rubem David Azulay (IDPRDA).

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.29176/2590843X.1700

Palabras clave:

Cabello africano, Cabello rizado, Condicionador de cabello, Cuidado del cabello, Origen étnico y salud

Resumen

Introducción: es importante que los dermatólogos conozcan las prácticas capilares culturales que favorecen la inflamación, acumulación de residuos y principales alteraciones que afectan el cuero cabelludo afroamericano.
Metodología: se llevó a cabo una revisión sistemática utilizando las principales bases de datos médicas teniendo como objetivo las publicaciones sobre el cabello afroamericano, sus particularidades y cosméticos capilares.
Resultados: conocer las características anatómicas y moleculares propias del pelo de origen africano ayuda a elegir productos ideales para su manejo adecuado. Las prácticas que provocan su rotura incluyen el alisado, los agentes químicos, entre otros. El champú elimina el sebo y los residuos; sin embargo, su contenido de surfactantes puede provocar alteración cosmética en el cabello crespo. Técnicas modernas para su cuidado y limpieza se han desarrollado para favorecer la sensación cosmética.
Conclusiones: la evaluación clínica además del conocimiento cultural de las rutinas capilares son herramientas fundamentales para mejorar la salud y los cuidados del cabello en esta población.

Biografía del autor/a

Leonardo Lora-Barraza, Dermatólogo por la Pontificia Universidad Católica de Río de Janeiro (PUC-Río)/ Sociedad Brasileña de Dermatolgia (SBD) 2020. Monitor académico del consultorio de dermatologia en Piel negra. Instituto de dermatología professor Rubem David Azulay (IDPRDA).

Dermatólogo por la Pontificia Universidad Católica de Río de Janeiro (PUC-Río)/ Sociedad Brasileña de Dermatolgia (SBD) 2020. Monitor académico del consultorio de dermatologia en Piel negra. Instituto de dermatología professor Rubem David Azulay (IDPRDA).

Myrna B. Gómez-Parra, Dermatóloga Fundación Universitaria de Ciencias de la Salud (FUCS) – Hospital San José (HSJ). Dermatóloga M&S Medicina especializada.

Dermatóloga Fundación Universitaria de Ciencias de la Salud (FUCS) – Hospital San José (HSJ). Dermatóloga M&S Medicina especializada.

Katleen Da Cruz-Conceição, Dermatóloga por la Universidad Federal Fluminense (UFF)/ Sociedad Brasileña de Dermatologia (SBD) 2002. Jefe del consultorio de dermatología en Piel negra Instituto de dermatología professor Rubem David Azulay (IDPRDA).

Dermatóloga por la Universidad Federal Fluminense (UFF)/ Sociedad Brasileña de Dermatologia (SBD) 2002. Jefe del consultorio de dermatología en Piel negra Instituto de dermatología professor Rubem David Azulay (IDPRDA).

Referencias bibliográficas

Bosley RE, Daveluy S. A primer to natural hair care practices in black patients. Cutis. 2015;95(2):78- 80,106.

Omosigho UR. Changing practices of hair relaxer use among black women in the United States. Int J Dermatol. 2018;57(2):e4-e5. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijd.13822.

Ahn CS, Suchonwanit P, Foy CG, Smith P, McMichael AJ. Hair and Scalp Care in African American Women Who Exercise. JAMA Dermatol. 2016;152(5):579-80. https://doi.org/10.1001/jamadermatol.2016.0093.

Jackson F. The ABC's of black hair and skin care. ABNF J. 1998;9(5):100-4.

Crystal A, Ginette O. Chemical and Physical Properties of Hair: Comparisons Between Asian, Black, and Caucasian Hair. En: Fundamentals of Ethnic Hair. Springer International Publishing; 2016. p. 3-13. Edición de Kindle.

Bryant H, Porter C, Yang G. Curly hair: measured differences and contributions to breakage. Int J Dermatol. 2012;51(Suppl 1):8-11, 9-13. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-4632.2012.05555.x

McMichael AJ. Hair breakage in normal and weathered hair: focus on the Black patient. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc. 2007;12(2):6-9. https://doi.org/10.1038/sj.jidsymp.5650047

Cloete E, Khumalo NP, Ngoepe MN. The what, why and how of curly hair: a review. Proc Math Phys Eng Sci. 2019;475(2231):20190516. https://doi.org/10.1098/rspa.2019.0516

Sriwiriyanont P, Hachiya A, Pickens W, Moriwaki S, Kitahara T, Visscher M, et al. Effects of IGF-binding protein 5 in dysregulating the shape of human hair. J Invest Dermatol. 2011;131(2):320-8. https://doi.org/10.1038/jid.2010.309

Crawford K, Hernandez C. A review of hair care products for black individuals. Cutis. 2014;93(6):289-93.

Nohynek GJ, Antignac E, Re T, Toutain H. Safety assessment of personal care products/cosmetics and their ingredients. Toxicol Appl Pharmacol. 2010;243(2):239-59.

https://doi.org/10.1016/j.taap.2009.12.001

Robbins CR. Chemical and physical behavior of human hair. Berlín, Alemania: Springer; 2012 p. 746.

Bhushan B. Biophysics of human hair: structural, nanomechanical, and nanotribological studies. Berlín, Alemania: Springer; 2010. p. 192.

Baque CS, Zhou J, Gu W, Collaudin C, Kravtchenko S, Kempf JY, Saint-Léger D. Relationships between hair growth rate and morphological parameters of human straight hair: a same law above ethnical origins? Int J Cosmet Sci. 2012;34(2):111-6. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00687.x

Cloete E, Khumalo NP, Ngoepe MN. Understanding Curly Hair Mechanics: Fiber Strength. J Invest Dermatol. 2020;140(1):113-20. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jid.2019.06.141

Draelos ZD. Hair care and dyeing. Curr Probl Dermatol. 2015;47:121-7. https://doi.org/10.1159/000369412

De Sà Dias TC, Baby AR, Kaneko TM, Robles MV. Relaxing/straightening of Afro-ethnic hair: historical overview. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2007;6(1):2-5. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00294.x

Khumalo NP, Doe PT, Dawber RP, Ferguson DJ. What is normal black African hair? A light and scanning electron-microscopic study. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2000;43(5 Pt 1):814-20. https://doi.org/10.1067/mjd.2000.107958

19. Cruz CF, Fernandes M, Gomes A, Coderch L, Martí M, Méndez S, et al. Keratins and lipids in ethnic hair. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2013;35(3):244-9. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12035

Miranda-Vilela AL, Botelho AJ, Muehlmann LA. An overview of chemical straightening of human hair: technical aspects, potential risks to hair fibre and health and legal issues. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2014;36(1):2-11. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12093

Lewallen R, Francis S, Fisher B, Richards J, Li J, Dawson T, et al. Hair care practices and structural evaluation of scalp and hair shaft parameters in African American and Caucasian women. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2015;14(3):216-23. https://doi.org/10.1111/jocd.12157

Davis-Sivasothy A. The Science of Black Hair: A Comprehensive Guide to Textured Hair. Stafford, TX: Saja Publishing Company, LLC; 2011. p. 25-34.

Jenkins BJ, Powell BC. Differential expression of genes encoding a cysteine-rich keratin family in the hair cuticle. J Invest Dermatol. 1994;103(3):310-7. https://doi.org/10.1111/1523-1747.ep12394770

McMichael AJ. Ethnic hair update: past and present. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2003;48(6 Suppl):S127-33. https://doi.org/10.1067/mjd.2003.278

Martins-Pinto G, Damasco P. Low poo, shampoo, co-wash. En: Cosméticos capilares – muito além de shampoos e condicionadores. Rio de Janeiro, Brasil: Editorial DiLivros; 2020. p. 45-47.

26. Jones LN, Rivett DE. The role of 18-Methyleicosanoic Acid in the Structure and Formation of Mammalian Hair Fibres. Micron. 1997;28(6):469-85. https://doi.org/10.1016/s0968-4328(97)00039-5

Tokunaga S, Tanamachi H, Ishikawa K. Degradation of Hair Surface: Importance of 18-MEA and Epicuticle. Cosmetics. 2019;6(2):31. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics6020031

Loussouarn G, El Rawadi C, Genain G. Diversity of hair growth profiles. Int J Dermatol. 2005;44(Suppl 1):6-9. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-4632.2005.02800.x

Quaresma MV, Martinez Velasco MA, Tosti A. Dermoscopic diagnosis of hair breakage caused by styling procedures in patients of African descent. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2015;72(1 Suppl):S39-40. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2014.05.062

Rodríguez JH, Díaz CJ. Tricorrexis nudosa adquirida . Rev Asoc Colomb Dermatol Cir Dematol. [Internet]. 2019;24(2):138-40.

Draelos ZD. Shampoos, conditioners, and camouflage techniques. Dermatol Clin. 2013;31(1):173-8. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.det.2012.08.004

Madnani N, Khan K. Hair cosmetics. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 2013;79(5):654-67. https://doi.org/10.4103/0378-6323.116734

O’Lenick T. Anionic/cationic complexes in hair care. J Cosmet Sci. 2011;62(2):209-28.

Gavazzoni-Dias MF, de-Almeida AM, Cecato PM, Adriano AR, Pichler J. The Shampoo pH can Affect the Hair: Myth or Reality? Int J Trichology. 2014;6(3):95-9. https://doi.org/10.4103/0974-7753.139078

Keis K, Persaud D, Kamath YK, Rele AS. Investigation of penetration abilities of various oils into human hair fibers. J Cosmet Sci. 2005;56(5):283-95.

Davis MG, Thomas JH, van de Velde S, Boissy Y, Dawson TL Jr, Iveson R, et al. A novel cosmetic approach to treat thinning hair. Br J Dermatol. 2011;165(Suppl 3):24-30. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2133.2011.10633.x

Gavazzoni-Dias MF. Hair cosmetic: an overview. Int J Trichology. 2015;7(1):2-15. https://doi.org/10.4103/0974-7753.153450

Trüeb RM. [Shampoo]. Ther Umsch. 2002;59(5):256-61. https://doi.org/10.1024/0040-5930.59.5.256

Deeksha R, Sharma PK. Advancement in shampoo (a dermal care product): Preparation methods, patents and commercial utility. Recent Pat Inflamm Allergy Drug Discov. 2014;8(1):48-58. https://doi.org/10.2174/1872213x08666140115110727

Huebschmann A, Johnson Campbell L, Brown C, Dunn A. “My hair or my health:” Overcoming barriers to physical activity in African American women with a focus on hairstyle-related factors. Women Health. 2016;56(4):428-47. https://doi.org/10.1080/03630242.2015.1101743

Trüeb RM, Swiss Trichology Study Group. The value of hair cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Dermatology. 2001;202(4):275-82. https://doi.org/10.1159/000051658

De Sá Dias TC, Rolim Baby, Kaneko TM, Robles Velasco MV. Protective effect of conditioning agents on Afro ethnic hair chemically treated with thioglycolate-based straightening emulsion. J Cosmetic Dermatol. 2007;7(2):120-6. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2008.00374.x

Massey L, Bender M, Chiel D. Curly Girl: The Handbook. Londres, UK: Workman Publishing; 2011. p. 10-15.

Walton N, Carter ET. Better Than Good Hair: The Curly Girl Guide to Healthy, Gorgeous Natural Hair! Nueva York: Amistad Editor; 2013. p. 32-34.

La Torre C, Bhushan B. Nanotribological effects of silicone type, silicone deposition level, and surfactant type on human hair using atomic force microscopy. J Cosmet Sci. 2006;57(1):37-56.

Griffin M, Lenzy Y. Contemporary African-American Hair Care Practices. Pract Dermatol. 2015;26-34.

Gode V, Bhalla N, Shirhatti V, Mhaskar S, KamathY. Quantitative measurement of the penetration of coconut oil into human hair using radiolabeled coconut oil. J Cosmet Sci. 2012;63(1):27-31.

Aidoud A, Ammouche A, Garrido M, Rodriguez AB. Effect of lycopene enriched olive and argan oils upon lipid serum parameters in Wistar rats. J Sci Food Agric. 2014;94(14):2943-50. https://doi.org/10.1002/jsfa.6638

Rucker Wright D, Gathers R, Kapke A, Johnson D, Joseph CL. Hair care practices and their association with scalp and hair disorders in African American girls. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2011;64(2):253-62. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jaad.2010.05.037

Roseborough IE, McMichael AJ. Hair care practices in African-American patients. Semin Cutan Med Surg. 2009;28(2):103-8. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sder.2009.04.007

Hall RR, Francis S, Whitt-Glover M, Loftin-Bell K, Swett K, McMichael AJ. Hair care practices as a barrier to physical activity in African American women. JAMA Dermatol. 2013;149(3):310-4. https://doi.org/10.1001/jamadermatol.2013.1946

Tolliver SO, Hefner JL, Tolliver SD, McDougle L. Primary Care Provider Understanding of Hair Care Maintenance as a Barrier to Physical Activity in African American Women. J Am Board Fam Med. 2019;32(6):944-7. https://doi.org/10.3122/jabfm.2019.06.190168

Khumalo NP. On the history of African hair care: more treasures await discovery. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008;7(3):231. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1473-2165.2008.00396.x

Joseph RP, Coe K, Ainsworth BE, Hooker SP, Mathis L, Keller C. Hair As a Barrier to Physical Activity among African American Women: A Qualitative Exploration. Front Public Health. 2018;5:367. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpubh.2017.00367

Smith W, Burns C. Managing the hair and skin of African American pediatric patients. J Pediatr Health Care. 1999;13(2):72-8. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0891-5245(99)90057-3

Grimes PE, Davis LT. Cosmetics in blacks. Dermatol Clin. 1991;9(1):53-68.

Gaston SA, James-Todd T, Harmon Q, Taylor K, Baird D, Jackson C. Chemical/straightening and other hair product usage during childhood, adolescence, and adulthood among African-American women: potential implications for health. J Expo Sci Environ Epidemiol. 2020;30(1):86-96. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41370-019-0186-6

Verschoore M. The physiology of the African Hair and Skin was not fully investigated until the last two decades when dedicated laboratories aimed to identify its specificities. Int J Dermatol. 2012;51(Suppl 1):iv-v. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-4632.2012.05552.x

Cómo citar

1.
Lora-Barraza L, Gómez-Parra MB, Da Cruz-Conceição K. Cuidados del cabello afroamericano. rev. asoc. colomb. dermatol. cir. dematol. [Internet]. 6 de junio de 2022 [citado 24 de abril de 2024];29(4):269-81. Disponible en: https://revista.asocolderma.org.co/index.php/asocolderma/article/view/1700

Descargas

Los datos de descargas todavía no están disponibles.

Descargas

Publicado

2022-06-06

Cómo citar

1.
Lora-Barraza L, Gómez-Parra MB, Da Cruz-Conceição K. Cuidados del cabello afroamericano. rev. asoc. colomb. dermatol. cir. dematol. [Internet]. 6 de junio de 2022 [citado 24 de abril de 2024];29(4):269-81. Disponible en: https://revista.asocolderma.org.co/index.php/asocolderma/article/view/1700

Número

Sección

Artículo de revisión
QR Code
Estadísticas de artículo
Vistas de resúmenes
Vistas de PDF
Descargas de PDF
Vistas de HTML
Otras vistas

Algunos artículos similares: